Wear Tan Leather Shoes this Spring & Summer!

Now that the weather is warmer step up your style by pairing your suits with tan leather shoes. Try a wingtip or a cap toe (pictured) in tan leather.  Cole Haan and Johnston Murphy both have great tan leather styles this season.

Don't forget to pair them with a matching custom belt from Nicholas Joseph.

Request an Appointment to stop in and see over a dozen custom leather belt choices, starting at $225.

Spring & Summer Simplicity

Spring suit colors, summer suit colors, custom summer suit, custom light grey suitThis season, designers are showcasing the elegance of simplicity. Clothing colors are growing lighter and refreshingly carefree. Even the neutrals are trending on the light end of the color spectrum, with the spring shades of blue and gray much lighter than their winter counterparts.

To keep this focus on simplicity from becoming a monotonous outfit of solids, bring a focal-point piece into your outfit. If your suit and shirt are solid-colored, a multi-colored patterned tie can accent your ensemble.

Another key to making the most out of the trend toward solid colors is creating texture in the weave, with blends of wool and linen offering a variety of fabrics that look-and feel-fantastic.

We now have dozens of high-quality, light and breathable fabrics perfect for updating your business wardrobe during the warmer months.  Select from wool-linens, 100% linens, and surprisingly soft and breathable bamboo fabric.

Request an Appointment

One Suit, Three Styles

You work hard, and so should your suits.

Learn to create three different styles with the same suit using different combinations of shirts, ties, and accessories, all while maintaining a stylish, yet professional, image.

Board Room Power

Three piece custom suitStick to the basics: white or blue shirt, traditional tie, and dark shoes.  Avoid a black suit.  For the ultimate corporate image, don a vest and add a pocket square that coordinates with the colors in your tie.  Don't have a three piece suit?  Time to get one, but you can pull this look off with a two piece suit as well. Keep jewelry and other noticeable accessories to a minimum.

The Creative Brainstorming Look

Custom vest, custom shirtAdd style to your ensemble with rich, bold colors in your tie or shirt. Loosen your collar and tie or go sans necktie. Keep the vest and roll your sleeves.  No vest? No problem, keep the tie, just loosen it a bit.  Skip the black shoes and instead choose shoes with deep red or brown tones, such as Bordeaux, walnut, or burgundy.

The Evening Get TogetherCustom Shirt, Custom Suit

Casual doesn't have to mean sloppy-the beauty of custom clothing is that even casual wear fits you perfectly. Soften the corporate look without sacrificing style by exchanging the white or blue shirt with a checked or striped shirt.  Shirts or ties with tight patterns add visual interest to your outfit without overwhelming the eye.  Don't forget a subtle pocket square to top it off and get compliments.

How to Tie a Bow Tie

You know bow ties are back when women are looking to buy them for their men. Knowing how to tie a bow tie is an essential Gentleman Custom. Learn how.

  1. Flip up your collar and lay the bow tie around your neck with one end hanging about 2 inches lower than the other.
  2. Cross the longer end of the bow tie over the narrow end, and then wrap it from behind through the gap between bowtie and neck.
  3. Now fold the shorter end of the bow over.
  4. Pull the wider end over the folded part of the bow from step #3.
  5. Wrap it all the way around back through the gap between neck and bow tie. Don’t pull tight yet, but create a loop in front of this wrapping. Take the bow tie and pull it through this loop.
  6. Tighten the bow and give it a final adjustment to your liking.

Know How to Fold 'em: How to fold a pocket square...The Presidental or Flat Fold

How to fold a pocket square: The Presidental or Flat Fold

The flat folding method is one of the easiest ways to fold a pocket square. The pocket square is flat at the bottom and only about 1/2 inch of the fabric sticks out of the pocket.

This fold is exceptionally well suited for even the finest and thinest silk fabrics. Its classic look compliments daily business attire, casual sport coats, and even formal black tie attire. Ease in with a simple white linen square, then try a colored border white pocket square before jumping right in with colorful patterns in cottons, linens, and silks.

Attire for Weddings

A great wedding shirt and tie combinationIt's Wedding Season, Be Prepared! Wedding season is just around the corner and we've got a few hints to make it easier for you to look great without much effort. You'll also avoid looking like everyone else who wore their best "business meeting look" to the wedding.

Learn these tips you'll be set...now you just have to look up some conversation starters when you don't know anyone and your date is busy being a bridesmaid!

YOUR SUIT: For the typical evening wedding everyone will be in a black, grey, or navy blue suit and most of you should too*, just be sure to dress it up with some of these great tips:

1) THE SHIRT: Do not wear your solid white business shirt. Try to match a small patterned shirt with a solid, thick striped, or small pattern tie. If you must wear a solid shirt, try a pink or lavender.  Weddings are a great time to experiment with subtle color. Now you're set.  Next, count the white shirts you see at the reception, or better yet, count the non-white shirts you see (except the tuxes, of course).

2) THE TIE: Yes, you must wear a tie. Simplify choosing tie color by matching to a color in your shirt or suit. Learn the how to tie a tie and start with these four basic tie knots: Four-in-Hand (most popular now), Half Windsor, Full/Double Windsor, Bow Tie, Shell Knot.

3) THE POCKET SQUARE: This is a great opportunity to try out a pocket square if you haven't already. Linen or Cotton pocket squares with a complimentary color to your shirt are nice and subtle. Turn it up a notch with a colorful silk pocket square which doubles as an injury flag on the dancefloor. Learn how to fold a pocket square with these basic pocket square folds: Presidential or Flat, One Corner Up, Two Corners Up, Three Corners Up, and the Infamous Puff "Fold".

At Nicholas Joseph, we are happy to help you match a tie and pocket square to a shirt and suit, just give a call and come by, we always have over two hundred handmade, Italian silk ties for $75 each. If you have 6-8 weeks before your event, it's a great time for a new custom suit.

NEW CLIENTS: Request an Appointment or call (312) 895-1577

EXISTING CLIENTS: Request an Appointment, or Sign in to order online, your last shirt pattern is on file.

*For daytime or warm weather weddings, or for the dashing sartorialist, try a whipcord, seersucker, cotton, or tan suit!

Skills: Winter Weight (Suits & Trousers)

Custom flannel suitNow the the real Chicago winter is here to stay, you should be wearing your winter weight trousers and suits a few times per week. And when we say winter weight we're not talking about those extra few pounds that are the result of your holiday binge.  We're talking about Flannel - which, by definition, doesn't have to be woolen, but usually is.  It's a thicker weave with a soft texture that is lightly napped, resulting in a dense cloth to keep you warm.

Opt for a less soft cloth to hold your pant crease better and to keep from flapping in the wind.  Mid-grey, navy blue, and any herringbone or tweed patterns will keep you looking seasonable and warm. 

Go for flannel in a custom pant or custom flannel suit if your budget allows.  Custom flannel suits start at $795 and custom flannel trousers at $225.  See samples in our new showroom.

Overcoats & Top Coats - it's that time of year.

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No Kidding, it is that time of the year.

While many of us enjoy the mild temperatures that Fall brings to Chicago, it’s actually the perfect time of year to start thinking about your winter wardrobe. Like many of my friends, I am enjoying football, the changing colors of the trees, and the busy schedule that Fall brings - but planning-wise, I am already thinking of cold Chicago commutes and all those holiday events that are right around the corner!

Overcoats & Top Coats: What you wear over the suit is as important as the suit itself!

Every man should be thinking about the overcoat or top coat for the colder months. A great-looking (and fitting) coat you can wear over your suit as you move around town during the winter is essential. It will keep you warm but also protects those great bespoke suits you wear.

Many men prefer the trench coat style: double breasted with a belt to keep the winter weather away from the body. The Burberry trench in beige is the traditional look here. I personally prefer a single breasted, three-button, three-quarter length wool overcoat in a neutral charcoal to protect my custom suits. The only thing that impacts my decision in the morning on which to wear, trench or overcoat, is if there is rain (or, ugh…sleet) in the forecast or not.

Lucky for you Nicholas Joseph can help you with both of these wardrobe needs. Contact them to schedule an appointment to seecustom overcoat options for the winter season!

PS: Don’t forget to buy rubber overshoes this season to protect your fine leather shoes from those nasty salt stains.

French Cuff Exec frenchcuffexec@gmail.com | cufflinkaddictions.posterous.com Twitter.com/frenchcuffexec

Black Tie Affairs

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tux_blog

Renting a Tux should be Illegal

When I look at my calendar through the end of 2010, I see many events with black tie formal or black tie optional dress codes, and usually I have 4-6 of them (not to mention the recent trend of black tie weddings in January). Renting a tux is not an option for me (and shouldn’t be for you) for various reasons. First, if you rent a tux for each event, you will be spending between $100 and $200 a pop – that adds up. Second, rented tuxes remind me of my high school prom … do I really want to wear something that the previous person might have celebrated a bit too hard in? And last – I want something timeless not trendy.

Purchasing a tux is not as expensive as you think. You can get a 2 piece tuxedo with a custom made shirt starting at $1000. Add a bow tie (a real one guys – the clip-ons are just tacky and women love the undone bow tie look at the end of the night) and cummerbund and you can go to any event without any notice. You can also add a vest for a bit more formal look.

Tuxedos in 2010 have been very traditional and classic – think standard 2 button jacket with satin lapels, and pants with a satin stripe on the sides. This look never goes out of style. Add a white tuxedo shirt with French cuffs and either wing or pointed collar and you will be ready for anything. If you prefer to be the most stylish man in the room, opt for a midnight blue tuxedo with black satin lapels. Personally, I also like to mix in a black or grey shirt depending on the event. There’s no reason to stick with traditional all the time. I also prefer a classic black self-tie bow tie with great cufflinks and shirt studs – but you can add in a colored bow tie, fancy vest, or bling cufflinks to stand apart from the crowd.

One more note on the formal look – do not wear your everyday shoes with a tuxedo. Traditional tuxedo shoes are patent leather and do fit the overall look, both in slip-on and lace up style and a variety of “shine” options. Personally, I love to add velvet tuxedo slippers to my look, they’re a bit more fun and fancy for personal flare. My favorites are from Del Toro (http://www.buydeltoro.com)

Lucky for you Nicholas Joseph can help you with your wardrobe needs. Contact them to schedule an appointment to see custom tuxedo options for the winter season!

French Cuff Exec frenchcuffexec@gmail.com | cufflinkaddictions.posterous.com Twitter.com/frenchcuffexec